How to Take Apart a Bogen 3047 Tripod Head

I recently acquired an old Bogen 3047 head – I wanted to clean it up, tighten a few screws, and relubricate. However, I have run into a few problems:

1) This screw will not come out, and I partially stripped it trying to get it out. Any thoughts on what my next attempt should be? I was going to try heating to 100+ degrees to get metal to expand slightly , and possibly loosen bolt

2) I disassembled much of the head, and for the life of me, not sure how to reassemble this part. There is a metal strip that wraps around the cyclinder – this provides some resistance for a better swivel/ smoother rotation. The fit is so tight, I can’t seem to get it back in place. Any tips?

3) Any suggestion on what type of grease to use for lubrication? I’ve reviewed a number of threads online, including people who have emailed Bogen ( with no response ). No real consensus – I’m thinking auto bearing grease.

If the heat doesn’t work you may have to drill it out along with a bolt extractor.

Silicon grease would be a good choice for a lubricant.

If the heat doesn’t work you may have to drill it out along with a bolt extractor.

Silicon grease would be a good choice for a lubricant.

Thanks – I think I’m going to pass on the bolt extractor. I would have to take the head further apart to do that, and don’t want to just break it more lol.

Hopefully the heat will work.

I originally was trying to get it off because the tripod was rotating slightly ( like 5 degrees ), and thought the problem was under that area. However, It turns out the head wasnt fully tightened on the post. Once I corrected that, the wiggle was gone BUT now the degree indicator is off by 5 degrees And to rotate the degree indicator, I need to pull that screw out. If the heat doesn’t work, I”ll just leave it all alone. degree indicator isn’t critical.

Any reason to use silicon grease instead of something like lithium grease?

Ended up fixing the insertion problem. Turns out I was putting that piece on backwards. The post I was trying to insert must have a very tiny taper or something. Once I flipped it over, it was significantly easier to insert properly:

I put the strip of metal in the hole. it expands to press against the edges. Then I gently lined it up with the pole, and wiggled it in. It is a TIGHT fit, and you should wear heavy gloves. That metal strip is sharp on the edges.

Once I got the edges in place, I gently but firmly pushed with a wooden block. Be careful, its hard to gett the dges lined up, and if you force it, you can bend the metal strip, making it even harder to get in place.

If the heat doesn’t work you may have to drill it out along with a bolt extractor.

Silicon grease would be a good choice for a lubricant.

Thanks – I think I’m going to pass on the bolt extractor. I would have to take the head further apart to do that, and don’t want to just break it more lol.

Hopefully the heat will work.

I originally was trying to get it off because the tripod was rotating slightly ( like 5 degrees ), and thought the problem was under that area. However, It turns out the head wasnt fully tightened on the post. Once I corrected that, the wiggle was gone BUT now the degree indicator is off by 5 degrees And to rotate the degree indicator, I need to pull that screw out. If the heat doesn’t work, I”ll just leave it all alone. degree indicator isn’t critical.

Any reason to use silicon grease instead of something like lithium grease?

Silicone grease doesn’t breakdown too easily and is fairly thick bodied, would give a nice resistance/damping to the head.

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I have three Bogen/Manfrotto tripod heads that I no longer use. Here are the official specs/description:

Bogen 3047 Deluxe 3-Way Pan/Tilt Tripod Head with Quick Release Plate ($60) [58oz]
———————————————————————
“The Bogen 3047 Tripod Head is designed to meet the demands of heavy duty professional shooting. Sturdy enough to handle up to 16.6 pounds, the 3047 also comes with a quick release plate that makes it a snap to grab your camera and switch to handheld filming whenever you want and a secondary safety catch to make sure it remains mounted on the 3/8-inch attachment screw when you don’t. Three easy-to-grip rubber-coated lockable handles and two bubble indicators help you achieve precise positioning and alignment. The 3047 gives you a 360-degree panning range, as well as lateral tilt, and is suited for medium format cameras and below.”

Mine is in very good cosmetic condition, apart from the hexagonal mounting plate that has a notch cut out of it (see pics). Doesn’t affect stability, but you can buy replacement plates online for about $15 if its a concern.

Bogen 3029 3-Way Pan/Tilt Head (***SOLD***) [30oz]
——————————
“Manfrotto 3029 is an easy to use pan/tilt head for cameras up to medium format. Full three-way action with each axis movement controlled by separate locking handles. Maximum Weight Recommendation: 13.2 pounds”

Less heavy-duty than the 3047 so more suitable for mid-size cameras/smaller scopes. Mine is in OK cosmetic condition, but has a small corner of the cork missing on the mounting plate (see pics). Doesn’t affect stability.

Bogen 3025 3D Junior – Tripod head – ($20) [18oz]
———————————-
“A self-adjusting conical bearing locking system allows 360 rotation on both the vertical and horizontal plane. This is the ideal head for 35mm and light to medium format work.”

Allows independent setting and locking of each pan/tilt/yaw axis (eg to independently align a piggy-back DSLR camera on your mount or OTA). Mine is a little scuffed up cosmetically but otherwise each of three axes work fine. I lost the camera mounting bolt for it, but any 1/4″-20 bolt will suffice.

$60/***/$20 respectively. Buyer pays actual postage from ZIP 97124, which will be at most $10 each for USPS Priority Mail Medium Size Box [else see weights above]. Paypal preferred (no fee). Or take remaining two for $80 shipped conus!

Hi Jared for Bogen I am reading Manfrotto in the UK if so proceed as follows.

Take out centre column.
Turn upside down.
Undo 4 small screws in column base
Turn upright
Head should now unscrew from column base.

Fit new head in reverse.

Hope this is of help

Jared to remove the centre column there should be a knob that will unscrew at the point where all the legs come together. By loosening this knob the you should be able to raise the centre column.

It is not absolutley necessarry to take out the column, it just makes life easier. When changing heads.

Ron Warren, Detroit Area Photographer / 248-250-3369 / ronwarrenphotography.com

Monday, October 18, 2010

Manfrotto 3265 tripod griphead

23 comments:

Yep that screw is the key. I found out about it on a forum and I was glad I didn’t have to tear it apart or replace it.

Seems odd that there are two different places to adjust the tightness of the mechanism (the screw in question as well as the the thumbwheel).

08 July, 2011 Anonymous said.

Magic! Thanks for posting. You saved me from having to get a replacement!

You are the man! Thanks very much for taking the time to post this clear, articulate description of how to fix this. As others have already stated, you have saved me a great deal of time, cost and hassle.

25 February, 2012 Anonymous said.

yes you are the man, saved me and now I’m back in business, glad I was able to be enlightened by your mistake. many thanks

Thanks very much. You just saved me a bunch of money. I’ve had that head for years and it’s never been that tight–ok for small cameras but nothing heavy. Was about to dump it for a much more expensive one. Now I have a Speed Graphic with a huge Aero Ektar Lens mounted. sitting at an extreme angle on the heaad and it’s not budging at all!

Thanks Mr. Warren, you just saved me a bunch of money! It took a second to find the allen nut caked under some dirt. and another hour to find the right size allen wrench. After that it was cake! I was about to dump that tripod head in the trash. needed something sturdy to mount my Speed Graphic and HEAVY aero ektar lens. & my old 3 way head is just too heavy and slow to use. The 3265 has never been able to support even a medium sized camera at an angle. now it’s got a hefty 4×5 sitting at an extreme angle and not budging at all!

19 June, 2012 Anonymous said.

Let me add a 2013 thank you to the list. Watched all of the disassemble vids and was just about to embark when your post and two twists of the allen screw revitalized the head. Thank you

Another head saved (both the tripod and my own)! Easy fix, once I found the right-sized Allen wrench. Thank you SO much!

07 July, 2013 Anonymous said.

Same here! I’ve had this head for years and its served me well but recently won’t hold my 70-200L. It does now.

Glad to have been of help!

08 August, 2013 Anonymous said.

Nice! Saved the day! 🙂

19 September, 2013 Anonymous said.

Many thanks for a valuable piece of information. Before I made the recommended screw adjustment, I couldn’t tell the difference between when the grip lever was engaged and when it was not. I made about a half a turn (till it was tight), and now it feels like a new unit.

26 September, 2013 Anonymous said.

2.5 mm hex wrench and 360 degrees and the slipping problem became history, thanks.

30 November, 2013 Anonymous said.

Another 3265 saved! Thanks for the info and several reminders to read the entire article before taking the tripod head apart! I was so tempted! But with just a few twists of the Allen wrench and I am smiling again!

I’m so glad this post has helped so many people! I don’t even own the tripod and head anymore (nothing wrong with them, just moved to a lighter configuration) but the tip lives on. Good luck and good shooting everybody!

24 April, 2014 Anonymous said.

I was just about to send mine in for repair, but happened across this post. 1 full turn of the hex screw and it’s tight enough that I can back off the tension and still handle a D2Xs with SB800 and RayFlash. Hurray.

13 February, 2015 Anonymous said.

04 May, 2015 Anonymous said.

Thanks for this. Excellent help. Works great now! Love it!

04 May, 2015 Anonymous said.

Thanks for this. Excellent help. Works great now! Love it!

04 May, 2015 Anonymous said.

Hi, Well here comes info that may be Very helpful..
a. The friction thumb wheel is intended to ONLY adjust the ‘Slight drag’ ie.
Friction, that is desired when the lever is “pulled in” to recompose the shot.
It IS NOT intended to affect the Main clamping Force when the lever is released.
b. The small allen screw opposite the lever pivot point IS the ADJUSTMENT for the
Main Clamping Force. As the internal parts wear slightly the Main Clamping force
will become LIMITED due to wear at the “Lever Pressure Point” inside the handle.
Adjust this allen screw clockwise until Clamp force is sufficient. Now turn the
allen screw an additional one sixth turn clockwise. IF you turn it in too far you
will notice the lever does not release as far and it will be difficult to
recompose even when the lever is fully depressed.
This information is applicable to models 3265, 322, 324.
The RC2 suffix stands for “Rapid Connect”.

I too want to thank you for this post. It worked perfectly for my head which is well over 10 years old.

Introduction: Repair Broken Bogen Tripod Legs (P/N 3021)

How to fix the aluminum casting that hold the legs on a Bogen tripod. It’s green to repair stuff!

Basically, drill and tap a hole for a machine screw. Glue and screw the parts together. Done. You don’t have to use a 6-32 machine screw. That’s just what I had in the house.

Took me about 2 hours, but I made several mistakes. You can avoid those mistakes by looking through these instructions. I think it’s about an hour of work if you have the tools and do it right the first time.

You’ll need a bunch of tools. If you don’t already have a drill press, drill bits suitable for metal, a hack saw, file, screw drivers, etc, this will be a very expensive project. If you’re without tools or experience, you should seriously consider asking your friend to do it for you.

You could just buy the replacement part, but you’ll still have to take the tripod apart. The replacement part doesn’t come itself; it comes packaged with the upper leg part. Also, you’ll have to figure out the vintage of your tripod. Bogen has been making this model for years and there are subtle differences. (If you do buy a new part, at least recycle the broken bit.) And these are just the practical difficulties.

The reason I chose not to buy the replacement that I’m philosophically opposed to thinking of everything as disposable. Disposable items make sense for certain applications—medical supplies, for example. But do we really need to have something disposable to wipe off the kitchen counter? Or eat off of?

Repairing the stuff you already have is green because it reduces the amount of stuff in landfills and promotes responsible thinking. (It’s better than recycling because recycling is often promoted by plastic-producing companies—to dull the guilt of buying plastic stuff. Also, it’s harder than you’d think to recycle plastic. And the environmental impact of the transportation involved in curb-side recycling programs may offset whatever small advantage there is to recycling glass.)

Step 1: Disassemble and Drill

Disassemble your tripod’s legs. If you don’t know how, try. Taking your tripod apart is different from disassembling a camera lens—which is sure to end in disaster. The parts a big, there aren’t very many pieces, and the whole thing is fairly robust.

Now, epoxy the broken parts together and drill a hole. Make sure you use the right size drill bit. The upper hole should allow a 6-32 machine screw to pass through and the lower hole should be the right size for tapping threads.

Drilling one size hole through the whole thing is not a good idea because then the threads must match perfectly between the two parts. It’s very likely that the parts will come apart while trying to cut threads, so I wouldn’t advise it.

The depth of the hole should be enough the accommodate at least 1 cm of the machine screw. Unless you have a blind tap kit, you’ll need another 5-10 mm for the tap. It’s tapered, which means there won’t be threads quite to the end of the tap.

Step 2: Cut Threads

Use a 6-32 tap to cut threads into the bottom part of the hole.

The idea here is to let the small broken bit move freely on the machine screw so that it can be tightened down the the main part of the casting without a gap forming between due to thread misalignment.

It’s best to not break the tap.

You can get the threads cut pretty will by hand. I’ve never had trouble getting the tap centered and level enough. That said, larger projects that involve harder metals may require a little more care. But for this project, you should be able to cut good enough threads without problems.

If you feel resistance (or see the tap flexing) you can back the tap out and get rid of some of the metal chips. Then go back at it. Firm pressure is needed in some cases, but caution is better than putting a project on hold until the hardware store is open the next morning.

Use a bit of light oil on the tap, if you have any.

Step 3: Assemble and Tune

Dry fit the parts together. It should look straight and less broken. Make sure that you scrape any glue off the broken faces so that they fit together tightly.

The head of the machine screw will be in the way, so another modification is needed. If the screw has a pan-type head, file down a place to accommodate the head of the machine screw. Make it as perpendicular to the screw axis as possible. Other types of heads can be accommodated with counter-sunk or counter-bored holes.

Put some epoxy on the faces and in the threads (female side) and assemble the parts. Tighten the machine screw and let the glue set.

Step 4: Feel Terribly Clever

Take a step back and look at what you’ve done.

Re-Assemble the tripod and go take some pictures with it.

I have a Manfrotto/Bogen tripod model 3221 with a model 3055 head. I don’t like the head. It is difficult to finely adjust the position. Can I replace this with something else? Something that has gears or some sort of fine incremental adjustor?

This is for still DLSR photography. I do like the quick-release part.

1 Answer 1

The attachment is simple. There is only one main screw holding the head to the tripod’s base plate, a ⅜”×16 on full-size tripods, or a ¼”×20 on smaller ones. To prevent the head from unscrewing from the base plate, there are also three screws through the tripod’s base plate which engage ramps in the head’s mounting surface. You can see them by raising the tripod’s center column and looking at the bottom of the base plate.

To remove the head, just remove the three anti-rotation screws with a screwdriver, then unscrew the head from the center column by hand. You don’t need tools for the second step because the anti-rotation screws obviate the need to torque the head and tripod tightly together. The head shouldn’t be any harder to twist off than a mayonnaise jar lid.

This system is pretty well universal. You don’t have to get a Bogen/Manfrotto head for your Bogen 3221 leg set. Anything with a ⅜”×16 mounting screw can be made to work. 1

Can I replace this with something else? Something that has gears.

Manfrotto does have geared heads, such as the model 400:

Personally, I prefer a three-way head:

I find that it offers a nice compromise between precision and speed of adjustment.

I started on a Bogen 3030 3-way head 2 about 20 years ago now, and I still like that head. I’ve tried a few different ball heads, and I’m with you: they’re too easily adjustable for the kind of photography I like to do.

I do like the quick-release part.

Manfrotto has several QR plate systems. The one on your current ball head is the old “RC” plate, also known as the Bogen 3157.

It’s been replaced by the RC2 plate design, which has the same overall plate size, so the new plates will still work on old RC series heads. The RC2 heads have some material removed relative to the older style, and some of the newer Manfrotto heads have QR mounting areas that require that these cutouts be present, so that the old RC plates won’t fit.

The geared head depicted above is yet another plate design, which I have no experience with.

Footnotes:

There are companies making only tripod heads: they just use the standard mounting system, knowing their heads will work on leg sets from several other companies.

I’m looking for a larger tripod to steady my big green Calumet 8×10, and I’m looking at a Bogen 3046 tripod with a 3047 head. Anybody on the list use this pairing? Any advice pro or con?

As always. thanks in advance! Bill

Answers

I use that combination for my 4×5, and it’s overkill for me. The legset can surely take your camera. The 3047 head (16.5 lbs) is not rated for as much load as the legs (26 lbs), so if there’s a weak spot, it’s the head. The 3039 head is rated for the same 26 lb load as the legs, but I recall that there is a big price jump between the 3047 and 3039.

I find it to be an economical and sturdy combination if backpacking is not your goal. The 3046 has nearly the best, if not the best, load to self weight ratio of the Bogen aluminum tripods, and I liked it because it was tall enough to use without extending the center column. (If I were a weight reduction freak, I’d look into cutting out part of the center column.)

My only problem is keeping the camera from twisting on the tripod plate. I haven’t spent any effort looking for a solution, though.

The 3047 head isn’t strong enough for this camera. I tried a 3047 with a B&J 8×10 (similar weight as the Calumet C1). The settings slipped under the force.The problem is getting enough clamping force to offset the torque caused by gravity.

Try the 3057 (loads to 22 pounds) or 3039 heads (loads to 26.5 pounds). They are both recommended for 8×10 by Bogen/Manfrotto. I just bought a 3057 head for my 8×10 (newer Calumet/Cambo), though I haven’t mounted it yet. If you can dedicate a head to 8×10 or 8×10+4×5, the 3057 is a better choice, I think. The 3039 handles slightly more weight, but the plate is smaller, and the controls look more designed for MF cameras. If you have to have 1 for large, medium, and small formats the 3039 might be a bit better compromise.

I have 3046 and a set of Ries wooden legs. I don’t think you’ll have any problem with the 3046, but I like the wooden tripod better. It’s much nicer to use in cold weather, and much stronger.

Recognize that with the 3046 you can’t set each leg at a different angle. If you have difficult terrain, this could be a limitation. I recommend the 3036 legs instead for Bogen. Same load capacity, but you can set each leg independently. But, pound for pound, a wooden tripod will always carry more weight than an aluminum one.

I have that combination [for 4×5] and love it. One suggestion: get the extra leg set. Besides allowing individual leg settings, you get a lot more height.

I use the 3410 (329) head on a 3036 legset. I picked up this set to move to 8×10 (hopefully soon). My head might not handle the Monster, but has a higher rating than the 3047 and is about the same price. I’ve had it for six months and apart from not liking the square QR for some things (not ideally suited to my MD-4) it’s performed very well.

I definitely recommend getting a legset more adjustable than the 3046. The 3046 is cheap and light, but I didn’t get it because I photograph from inclines with some regularity and I’m one of those folks who tends to hang 4x5s from the bottom of their tripods — the 3036 is better for these uses.

Bill, I have a Calumet C-1, and the 3047 head (which I have) is definetly not enough for this camera. There’s a lot of wiggle and waggle on it. It takes my breath away every time I use it. I plan to purchase a heavy duty 3057 head.

Bill, Six months ago, when I got my Tachihara triple extension 8×10 (just over 12 pounds vs. just under 10 for the double extension), I had to make the same decision, eventually settling on the 3236 (3036) legs and 3057 head. With previous posts, I liked the 3036’s mid- level bracing system giving different angles of spread for each leg plus the 73.2″ of height without using the center column. The 3057 has the big 3297 4×4″ plate, but sometimes I wish the controls had longer handles. For what it’s worth, Manfrotto recommends both for 8×10. The outfit is heavy but my wife and I work together and we never intended to venture far from our car in the first place. Very steady system. Good luck. Nick.

The Bogen 3047 is too weak for 8×10. I like the Gitzo 1570M low- profile head for 8×10. It is light (less than the Bogen 3047) and supports 26 lbs. It works fine for me.

I use an inexpensive surveyor’s tripod with a 3047 head to hold my B&J 8×10 and it’s very stable. While over kill for 4×5 and not ideal for long jaunts in the field, it can be done.

I use a Bogen 3047 for my Deardorff 8×10 on a 3046 tripod. But I bought a larger mounting plate, maybe it’s for the 3057, and that makes the outfit much more secure.

Correction: I have a Bogen 3036 tripod.

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Bogen 3046 with 3047 head – enough for 8×10?

I’m looking for a larger tripod to steady my big green Calumet 8×10, and I’m loo king at a Bogen 3046 tripod with a 3047 head. Anybody on the list use this pairi ng? Any advice pro or con?

As always. thanks in advance! Bill

Bogen 3046 with 3047 head – enough for 8×10?

I use that combination for my 4×5, and it’s overkill for me. The legset can surely take your camera. The 3047 head (16.5 lbs) is not rated for as much load as the legs (26 lbs), so if there’s a weak spot, it’s the head. The 3039 head is rated for the same 26 lb load as the legs, but I recall that there is a big price jump between the 3047 and 3039.

I find it to be an economical and sturdy combination if backpacking is not your goal. The 3046 has nearly the best, if not the best, load to self weight ratio of the Bogen aluminum tripods, and I liked it because it was tall enough to use without extending the center column. (If I were a weight reduction freak, I’d look into cutting out part of the center column.)

My only problem is keeping the camera from twisting on the tripod plate. I haven’t spent any effort looking for a solution, though.

Bogen 3046 with 3047 head – enough for 8×10?

The 3047 head isn’t strong enough for this camera. I tried a 3047 with a B&J 8×10 (similar weight as the Calumet C1). The settings slipped under the force.The problem is getting enough clamping force to offset the torque caused by gravity.

Try the 3057 (loads to 22 pounds) or 3039 heads (loads to 26.5 pounds). They are both recommended for 8×10 by Bogen/Manfrotto. I just bought a 3057 head for my 8×10 (newer Calumet/Cambo), though I haven’t mounted it yet. If you can dedicate a head to 8×10 or 8×10+4×5, the 3057 is a better choice, I think. The 3039 handles slightly more weight, but the plate is smaller, and the controls look more designed for MF cameras. If you have to have 1 for large, medium, and small formats the 3039 might be a bit better compromise.

I have 3046 and a set of Ries wooden legs. I don’t think you’ll have any problem with the 3046, but I like the wooden tripod better. It’s much nicer to use in cold weather, and much stronger.

Recognize that with the 3046 you can’t set each leg at a different angle. If you have difficult terrain, this could be a limitation. I recommend the 3036 legs instead for Bogen. Same load capacity, but you can set each leg independently. But, pound for pound, a wooden tripod will always carry more weight than an aluminum one.

: BOGEN GRIP ACTION BALL HEAD WITH QUICK RELEASE PLATE: Manfrotto Trigger Grip Ball Head: Camera & Photo. Manfrotto Grip Action Ball Head Tripod Heads and Accessories user reviews: out of 5 – 29 reviews – Shop Bogen/Manfrotto Grip Action Ball Head Tripod Head at KEH Camera, your source for buying and selling used cameras.

Another head saved both the tripod and my own! Perhaps more important, all advanced amateurs and even some pros under a budget who manfotto followed my recommendation to get it 32665 come back to say: I was just about to send mine in for repair, but happened across this post. Nice piece Almost brand new except for a small scratch. I found a small nut which is really what this whole story is about on the front side of the unit and tightened it with a smaller allen wrench.

Made of cast aluminum. Before I made the recommended screw adjustment, I couldn’t tell the difference between when the grip lever was engaged and when it was not.

This information is applicable to mqnfrotto, Durable and of a 3625 quality. This item is great! I was so tempted! And this darned thing was flopping all over the place, and my came ra and lens were going with it!

Not only did the lever stabilize, but I noticed that this tiny nut also seems to contribute some control to the overall tightness of the tripod head see pictures above to see where this little gem is. Many thanks for a valuable piece of information.

You may also like. Friction, that is desired when the lever is “pulled in” to recompose the shot.

Manfrotto 222 (Bogen 3265) Grip Action Ball Head Review

I acquire allen wrenches and washers and go to it read all the way to the end before you d ive in, please — learn from my mistakes! Tripod grip Was exactly as stated. It looks like technology will make things easier for novices but more challenging for pros.

Adjust this allen screw clockwise until Clamp force is sufficient. I have a Manfrottp tripod griphead. It worked perfectly for my head which is well over 10 mmanfrotto old.

Manfrotto RC2 Replacement for Manfrotto | B&H Photo

The has never been able to support even a medium sized camera at an angle Works perfectly and looks to have had very little use. Glad to have been of help! I’m so glad this post has helped so many people! Watched all of the disassemble vids and was just about to embark when your post and two twists of the allen screw revitalized the head.

Ramon Palacios jrp 6. Don’t forget manfritto ID December 04, If your hands are steady this should not be a problem for you, but if you aren’t as steady as you used to be you too may find a traditional ball head more effective manvrotto the With this grip manvrotto ball head, all three adjustments are made in a single movement, that is why I don’t mind repeating: Hi, Well here comes info that may be Very helpful.

Now gather everything up that flew apart and take a few minutes to figure out where it all goes back. If you have the same or similar tripod head and it gets loose, you might try a couple of easy turns with an allen wrench before you try major tripod surgery.

How do you dress up in the cold for photography? Manfrotto Tripod Heads for Cameras. Thanks for the info and several reminders to read the entire article before taking the tripod head apart! I’ve had this head for years and its served me well but recently won’t hold my L. Almost brand new except for a small scratch.

So, the mnfrotto of the story is: How to tackle the steep Z-series learning curve December 13, More articles that might interest you Working with Markins ballheads video. Recently I was shooting outdoor foliage for HDR which requires multiple identical shots at manfrotro exposures.

Unbranded Tripod Heads for Manfrotto. Very easy to use. Read new messages Our core community values We are existing for you Welcome sumanmut new members in 7 days Birthdays today. It is extremely versatile, quick and easy to use, apparently still a favorite among many pros.

I was about to dump that tripod head in the trash Camera Tripod Heads for Manfrotto.

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Trying to detach 3047 head from 3221w tripod

I have an ultimate beginner’s/really silly but presently really pertinent question.
Tomorrow I’m traveling for the first time with my 4×5. Consequently, I am trying to fit my tripod and tripod head in my suitcase—consequently I need to detach this behemoth 3047 Manfrotto head from my 3221W tripod. I remember attaching them (I bought them separately) by gently screwing the 3047 onto the top of the 3221W. Now, however, no matter how insanely hard I turn and twist, I cannot detach the head from the tripod mount.

The most helpful piece of information at this point would be for someone to take a look at these pictures:

And tell me if you know where the tripod ends and the head begins (I don’t want to waste effort trying to unscrew part of the tripod from the tripod or head from the head, etc.).

Open to suggestions and humiliating teasing alike . . . =)

Trying to detach 3047 head from 3221w tripod

Somehow the link to the pictures didn’t work, but here is an idea for you:

Could it be that the head is secured with screws from the bottom of the tripod head? I know that with my Manfrotto that’s the case. Turn your tripod upside down and see if there aren’t three screws securing it.

Trying to detach 3047 head from 3221w tripod

The tripod ends at the top of the unfinished aluminum cylinder. The head starts there with the grey painted cylinder and goes up.

You may have to remove the center colum from the tripod, and unscrew the set screws from the tripod plate. Sometimes, the set screws will tighten up on their own, and make it impossible to remove the head.

The set screws are located in the top plate of the tripod center column (the unfinished aluminum plate that is touching the head). You will see three screw heads 120 degrees apart countersunk into three holes on the bottom of the plate.

If the set screws are loose, they can still catch on the head, so if the head seems to loosen a little but then binds, loosen the set screws a bit more.

Beyond that, it’s a matter of elbow grease.

Trying to detach 3047 head from 3221w tripod

just looked at my 3047. Instaed of removing the tripod column just raise it so you can get at those set screws inderneath the silver collar

Trying to detach 3047 head from 3221w tripod

Raise the center column up about 10 inches. Lock it securely in that position. Look underneath the round silver colored disk at the top of the tripod column , where it meets the tripod head. You will see three slotted- head screws that face upwards, slightly recessed into the round plate on the top of the tripod column. They are there to lock the head so it cannot un-screw from the tripod leg set. Using a screwdriver that properly fits these screws, loosen them, but don’t remove them all the way (you don’t want to loose them) You should now be able to un-screw the 3047 tripod head from the top of the tripod column.

Trying to detach 3047 head from 3221w tripod

O.K., so you’ve read the messages here, removed the screws, and you still can’t unscrew the head. I’ve had the same difficulty you’re having with this tripod/head combination and it was pure living hell getting the head off the tripod even after the screws were removed. I even resorted to calling Bogen to see if they had any suggestions and they didn’t. I ended up saturating the base of the head with some lubricant a neighbor had that he said was the mother of all lubricants, then putting the tripod in a vise, removing the rubber handles, and banging away at the metal arms with a hammer. When that didn’t work I put the handles back on since it was easier to hit them with the hammer and banged away some more. The rubber handles now have some splits in them and the arms are a little bent but the head is off the tripod (I was doing all this to replace the 3047 head with a geared head). I don’t know what causes this, you’d think unscrewing the head would be a simple task once the screws are removed but unfortunately that isn’t always the case.

Trying to detach 3047 head from 3221w tripod

There is a process for situations like this rather than just resorting to simply pounding the hell out of it to get ot apart. Try a little heat from a propane torch to see if you can get it to expand a bit and hit the joint with a hard rubber hammer. The next step would be to try to get some Liquid Wrench into the head/tripod union.

On the bottom of my 3021 head, there is an ingenious set of quasi “teeth” in the form of slight downward V’s to hold the head onto the tripod. When excessive force is applied, she works as intended and holds like hell.

Lastly, I would take it to a woodworking store or a hardware store and see if they can carefully put the tripod in a vise and get one of those strap wrenches or a pipe wrench over a thick rag and that will surely bust it apart.

Once you get it apart, remember that only a modest amount of pressure will keep it together. Good Luck.

Trying to detach 3047 head from 3221w tripod

You’re right; I have removed the screws, but the beast still holds. I will look in to applying some heat to get a little expansion as Michael suggests, and whatever else seems logical without destroying my investment.

For now, I’m opting for a larger suitcase and hauling as is.

On a slightly different note, should I be concerned about the airport x-rays damaging my sheet film?

Thanks for the advice all. This forum impresses me more every time I use it.

who is off to Oregon tomorrow morning.

Trying to detach 3047 head from 3221w tripod

Do not put your film in your luggage as it will be smoked with the x ray intensity. Be very professional and look your screened directly in the eyes and say “I am a photographer and would greatly appreciate an opportunity to have my large format sheet film hand checked to minimize adverse effects on the final image”. Try your best to get it hand checked through security and if worse case scenario comes into play and they give you a hard time, go ahead and let them run it through the security machine and it should be fine. Modern screening at major airports have done a good job of improving their technology and you might have some minor fogging to deal with but that is manageable. Next time plan ahead and have your film Fed Exed to and from your destination as that is the best situation and well worth the cost IMHO.

Trying to detach 3047 head from 3221w tripod

Thanks for the input. Fortunately most of my film is incidentally being FedEx’d to my destination, since I was late in ordering and am just having the store send it to my point of arrival rather than carrying it with me. So that’s good. The film I’m carrying with me is less in number and ‘more expendable’ relatively speaking, fortunately; but I’ll remember your advice for future reference.

Tripods get taken for granted. But the day you find your tripod has a loose leg or a wobbly head is the day you realize how essential a fully functional tripod really is. Here’s information on repairing common tripod troubles and instructions to help keep your tripod in good working order. A little bit of preventive maintenance will go a long way to ensuring that your tripod serves you well for many years.

Cleaning And Maintaining

Generally, if it isn’t exposed to the elements, you shouldn’t have to clean your tripod very often. But after working in certain circumstances, a thorough cleaning is a must. For instance, if you work in particularly dirty or sandy conditions, or if your tripod is exposed to water—particularly saltwater—it’s best to clean the legs well before collapsing the tripod. If the tripod is immersed in mud, sand or water of any sort, then after your shoot you’ll need to disassemble the tripod and clean it completely.

Most screw-type tripod legs simply unscrew so that each section can be removed from the section above it. Tripods that use latches may require removing a bolt or screw in order to remove the joint and the leg section inside it. Manfrotto actually includes a plastic nut driver that doubles as a cable manager and snaps onto tripod legs. One opening on the little device is sized perfectly to act as a wrench for the small nuts and bolts that hold joint connectors tight.

On every tripod there are typically plastic shims or sleeves at the end of each leg section, so when taking apart legs don’t forget to take pictures of how the shims may be positioned so that you can put them back correctly during reassembly. Once dismantled, clean any dirt, debris or saltwater off of the tripod elements using clean, filtered water to minimize contaminants along with a cloth, sponge or soft bristled brush. Then, rinse clean and dry with a cloth and allow the tripod to thoroughly air dry prior to reassembly.

To follow your tripod manufacturer’s rules, try not to carry the extended tripod with a load (i.e., the mounted camera) over your shoulder. This stress could warp or damage the tripod and its sensitive joints. Also, don’t leave the tripod in your trunk for long periods of time in hot or cold weather, as the temperature extremes aren’t good for the lubricants that keep your tripod working smoothly.

Fixes And Repairs

If your screw-type tripod leg locks are sticky and don’t turn easily, they likely need to be cleaned and lubricated. Unscrew the locks completely and use a clean, dry cloth or stiff plastic or natural-bristled brush to remove any sand, dirt or old grease from the threads that prevents smooth twisting.

If the threads need cleaning, use clean filtered or bottled water and a soft-bristle brush to remove any contaminants from the threads. It’s imperative to be sure all of the components are completely dry before reassembly in order to prevent mold and corrosion.

Next, using a high-quality silicone lubricant (such as Napa Sil Glyde, which is durable and long lasting), apply a small amount to the first few threads on each leg. When the joint is reassembled, the lubricant will be spread to the remaining threads. This should allow the smooth operation of the twist-to-lock joints.

If the tripod head is wobbling on its connection to the legs, sometimes it’s an indicator that the head has spun loose on the large bolt that connects it to the tripod. Often there’s a setscrew accessible from below the tripod center column that can come loose and allow the tripod head to come loose. Start by tightening that small, countersunk setscrew. Another option for this kind of wobbly head is to ensure that you’ve cleaned the hinges that connect the legs to the spider—that’s the central piece that the legs connect to and through which the center post slides, or directly to which the head is mounted. On my tripod, the hinges are barrel type—a thin steel tube that rotates, thanks to lubrication, inside the joint. The legs screw into that rotating barrel, and when the lubrication dries up, wears out or gets contaminated by dirt or moisture, you’ll definitely know it’s time to disassemble and clean the joints.

I recently had to repair my tripod when the legs became very loose and no amount of tightening of the bolts that connect the legs to the hinge would help. It turned out that over time and wear and exposure to enough heat (like when leaving the tripod in the trunk of the car on a hot day, for instance), the grease that lubricates the barrel joints had completely dried up. What once rotated freely to smoothly spread the tripod legs now was stuck tight—so tight, in fact, that when I removed the leg bolts I had to hammer the cylinders out of the hinge. Once out, clean any old grease from the hinge using a solvent such as naphtha. I used a very fine sandpaper to smooth away any particularly stuck areas from the cylinders and the brass washers adjacent to them.

Newly clean, and long after everything had dried, I lubricated the barrel joints with the Sil Glyde silicone lubricant and reassembled the tripod. While maybe not literally “good as new,” the tripod’s movement was vastly improved. Had the hinges not been repairable, new parts can be ordered from helpful manufacturers for a nominal charge.

While the elements that go into tripods are fairly simple and straightforward, they’re still finely tuned instruments that take a little forethought to maintain in good working order. With a bit of care, you can extend the life of your tripod indefinitely.